First attempt at enfleurage

It’s been a weird weather week but the jasmine flowers have started to bloom and that smells good no matter the weather. I’ve been wanting to try wanted to try enfleurage, the French perfumery method that can extract even the subtlest of scents, for a couple of years and finally decided it’s now or likely never.

Enfleurage is a traditional French perfumery method, utilising fat as the extraction medium. It has long been loved because it captures the true scent of flowers. Interestingly, I read that flowers such as those of the Jasmine, continue to produce their smell long after the bloom has been plucked and that is why, in part, this extraction method works particularly well. In the case of lilacs, their volatile oils can only be extracted via fat, as anyone will know who has ever tried to capture lilac perfume in alcohol or water. The fat absorbs the delicate volatile oils, which are layered up over time, resulting in a highly scented pomade. This pomade can then either be used as is, as a scented base fat in lotions and the like, or further processed in high proof alcohol, giving a scent in liquid form.

Rain is not a good addition to this method, with the potential for mould growth, but the jasmine blooms for such a short period I had to try. Hopefully I countered any issues with some kitchen towel and a decent amount of wilting time but I guess only time will really tell.

Basic enfleurage method

Based on some reading, there are several ways that you can follow that have claims to the term enfleurage. The method I chose to follow is the simplest but results still promise to be good.

You’ll need:

• Some type of fat (traditionally, animal fat is used but I choose to use Shea Nilotica as it’s amazing on the skin and smoother than other shea’s, cocoa butter, etc. making for easy spreading).
• A ready supply of delicate flower blossoms (you will need to change these out over a period of days so a few flowers that bloom all at once aren’t going to cut it), slightly wilted so less moisture will be confined.
• A glass container with either a fitted lid.
• A spoon or spatula.

Method:

1. Lay out a layer of your fat of choice in a glass tray. You don’t need to aim to get this too smooth, the volatile oils collect in any peaks and troughs. However, overly defined peaks and troughs have the potential to be mould and pollen traps.
2. Press the slightly wilted flowers gently into the top of the layer of fat.
3. Cover and store in a cool, dark location.
4. Keep an eye on your flowers each day, changing out any when they turn translucent or grey/brown, or when they appear to lose their fragrance. I’m planning on changing these out for as long as the jasmine blooms last in the hope’s of capturing as much as I can of this beautiful scent before the season ends.

Have you tried enfleurage? Which flowers did you use? I’d love to hear.